Friday after lunch I went with my school to Anjou Troglodytique. Anjou is the ancient name of my region (now referred to as Maine et Loire) and Anjou Troglodytique (“troglos”) refers to many small villages/houses around the area that are underground! These caves were dug by poor farmers in the middle ages to quarry stone that they then sold to build the châteaux (castles), églises (churches), and other larger houses. Thus, they had enough money to pay their neighbors to help and the creation of these underground houses was a community event. The village I visited was fascinating—the rooms were separate and one had to go “outside” to get to another, but they were all under the farm; even the stables for the animals were underground. People inhabited this village until the 1930s!
Underground house
Inside a stable
Kitchen
After the troglo village, we toured a wine cave at Veuve Amiot. They use the same process that is used in the production of champagne, but name “Champagne” can only be used for wine coming from that region. The caves were moldy and damp, but the wine was pretty good—we sampled a blanc, rose, and rouge. However, I have to say that this was no comparison to my first wine tasting in the small countryside vineyard.
Wine in the cave
Wine tasting with friends
Wine tasting with my French "monitrices" and the director of my program :)
After dinner, we made a quick pit-stop at the Château de Saumur. We spent about an hour picking grapes from the vineyards in front of the castle, exploring the moat and the grounds, and admiring the view of the Loire River.
Château de Saumur
View of the Loire from the Château
Finally, we went to a restaurant in a cave! The region is also known for mushrooms that are cultured in caves, so we ate mushrooms at each course of the meal. By far the best mushrooms I’ve ever had (even though I didn’t like mushrooms as a kid), extremely flavorful and they were cooked in very interesting ways. The restaurant also made little bread balls (I guess these would be called rolls) in a fire oven visible from the table. Delicious mushrooms+fresh bread continuously brought to the table+more wine+new friends=a contender for the best meal of my life.
Dinner in the cave
Saturday I went to the beach of a little river called “Le Loir” (not to be confused with “La Loire”, which it connects to) with Madame, Jean, and Wenonah. We swam a bit, even though it was pretty cold, played pétanque (a French game with metal balls, similar to Bocce), and badminton. Afterwards, we visited a small château on the banks that was really more like a big house, but still beautiful and with a gorgeous view of the green fields that the Loire Valley is famous for.
On Sunday, I woke up early to go on another fieldtrip with my school to three castles in the Loire Valley. The day started with a stunning sunrise over the Loire River. Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of this but try and imagine fog over the fields, an enormous orange sun, and the reflection on the Loire—magnifique! The first stop was the Château d’Azay le Rideau, a castle built in 1523 for Martin Berthelot, the mayor of Tours and treasurer for King François I. The inside was decorated in Renaissance style. My favorite parts were the staircase in the middle, the many open windows, the moat, and the grounds behind the castle. This was definitely the most peaceful out of the three as it was the smallest and had the least amount of tourists.
Behind the Château d’Azay le Rideau with my friends
Next was the Château de Chenonceau (wikipedia site), which was also constructed in the 16th century. King Henry II gave the castle to his favorite mistress Diane de Poitiers, who designed the garden on the left (east). After he died, his wife Catherine de Médicis was regent and forced Diane to leave. Catherine then planted the garden on the right (west). The weather was absolutely perfect for strolling around the gardens, and I preferred that of Diane on the east side. The interior was very extravagant with many paintings, furniture pieces, and tapestries.
Château de Chenonceau
Side view, on the Cher River
In the garden of Diane de Poitiers
The last castle was the Château de Chambord (wikipedia site), which was also built in the 16th century Renaissance style—absolutely spectacular. King François I was the first inhabitant and he used it for hunting grounds, but Louis XIV is another famous King to spend time there. The castle comprises 77 staircases, 282 chimneys, and 426 rooms. The central double staircase is especially famous because it was suggested by Leonardo da Vinci to François and consists of two staircases that wind around each other without meeting. I didn’t spend as much time in the rooms here, as I was a little overwhelmed by the quantity. However, I especially enjoyed the third floor, which featured many modern art works and a special exhibit on the castle in WWII, during which it was occupied and guarded by soldiers. At the beginning of the war, the Mona Lisa was sent there for safe-keeping, as well as many other important art works such as the drawings of Leonardo de Vinci and Pisanello. I also enjoyed the view from the top of the expansive grounds. This château was my favorite because the history was extremely interesting and the castle itself was incredible. Châteaux count for the weekend: five.
Château de Chambord, from the back
Paintings I liked on the third floor
Photo during WWII
The Mona Lisa being moved to the castle
View from the top, famously long entry drive
On a balcony
In the few days back at my normal life this week, I’ve been occupying myself with school work and planning for my vacation to the Pays Basque with Wenonah next week! I had one especially bad mishap at dinner Monday night… I was trying to ask Madame if she wanted me to put the plastic wrap (“le film”) on the rice, but accidentally said “le fion” instead. Le fion is an old bad word referring to, pardon my French (haha), a chicken’s asshole. Madame started cracking up and we were all on the verge of peeing our pants once she could explain what I had said. Oops!
If you made it to the end of this epic post, thank you for reading! Lots of love!
Last Saturday morning I went to the farmer’s market in Angers. I enjoyed the lovely morning with some time to myself, browsing the produce and wondering a bit before returning home to go back to sleep.
Farmer's Market in Angers
Fountain in Centre Ville, by the Farmer's Market
Later that evening, Wenonah, Mina, and I celebrated the house to ourselves while Madame and Jean spent the weekend at the beach by cooking dinner together. It included a minor panic attack when we couldn’t get the chicken out of the oven because the door was locked and we had accidentally set the oven to clean itself (and our chicken). Oops. Miraculously, the chicken turned out perfectly when we managed to finally rescue it!
Sunday I woke up early again to go on an excursion with my school. We went to Mont Saint Michel and Saint Malo. Mont Saint Michel, located on the border of Normandy and Brittany, is one of the most touristy places in France, but for a good reason. The sight of the massive abbey on top of the summit is amazing. The island is surrounded by water or vast expanses of sand, depending on the tide which is extraordinarily strong (has actually killed people).
Mont Saint Michel
Construction of the abbey started in the 8th century and was finished in the 16th century. It was originally a chapel, then an abbey for the Benedictines, later a military fortress during the Hundred Years War, and a prison after the Revolution. Eventually it was returned to the Benedictines (1966), but the Service des Monuments Historiques started restoration in 1874.
My favorite part was the amazing view from the top of the surrounding sea and countryside, but the rooms inside were also very neat. Super cool place to visit.
View from the top toward the mainland
Me & Mina at the top
This one's for Rose :)
Church inside
Cloister
After Mont Saint Michel, we headed to Saint Malo, a small port city in Brittany with a lot of history (like all European cities). The old part of the city is surrounded by ramparts constructed in the 17th century. In WWII, the area inside was bombed and 80% was destroyed by the fire. However after the war, the buildings were reconstructed to look exactly like they did before, which is rare for many small cities that were attacked. This is also a city that sent many ships to North America for exploration, including Jacques Cartier (the man who claimed Canada). Today, Saint Malo is still a “cité corsaire”, meaning that it is home to many ships and sailors that are like pirates with authorization from the government.
Ramparts around Saint Malo
Port
View of a line of Crêperies from the top of the ramparts
The region is known for crêpes, oysters, muscles, galettes (similar to a crêpe, but not a desert), and many vegetables such as cabbage. I spent the afternoon in the old city, eating crêpes, drinking cider, exploring a bit, and then playing on the beach. I really enjoyed the city and hope to go back to Brittany (Bretagne) before the end of the semester. It’s a very beautiful region!
Street view of the line of Crêperies
Sipping Cider
The Beach
Kites in the distance
Me and my friend Anne, whom I spent the afternoon with
I had four tests in school this week and a presentation. All went well, but I was very busy. Wednesday night my program had a party themed “Chic Choq” (“choq”=shock). It was a blast! I wore a dress and a huge hat that I borrowed from my French little sister. Lots of dancing and chatting with my classmates. I also met a lot of French students, woo hoo! I love talking to French people my age! Honestly, when I came to France I didn’t expect the people to be so welcoming, but everyone has been very nice to me, especially the students.
Chic Choc with my Monitrice Julie (French) and friend Matt (Canadian)
This weekend I’m looking forward to a few excursions, but I won’t spoil the surprise :)
